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It’s called “cupping,” and as specialty coffee shops spring up around the county, this method of deciphering java’s different flavors is also becoming more popular.

The United States imports approximately $4 billion worth of coffee each year, according to E-Imports’ Web site. The coffee bean, which is green before it’s roasted, is grown in 53 countries.

Specialty coffees, defined by the Specialty Coffee Association of America, are coffees that have no defects and a distinctive flavor in the cup. Like wine, specialty coffees have a unique flavor based on the micro-climates that produce them.

Cupping is done for several reasons.

It allows consumers to try a variety of different roasts from different regions, allowing them to determine which they enjoy most.

For roasters, cupping can help market products as well as assess what roasts are favorable, and from what region, said Greg Brewton, owner of Jovis Coffee.

Last week, Brewton held a cupping at Jovis Coffee, an event that will be a monthly happening for coffee lovers.

On a back table, 11 cups sat, each with 7 grams of coarsely ground coffee from six different regions. Also displayed were the green and roasted beans.

There were beans from Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Kenya, Colombia, New Guinea and Ethiopia. Because Brewton roasts his own coffee, several cups were the same bean roasted at different temperatures.

Boiling water filled each glass of coffee and the participants waited about four minutes. The hard coffee crust from the top of the glass was removed and the cuppers soaked in the coffee’s aroma at the same time.

Then it was time to taste. With a spoonful of coffee, participants took an aggressive sip, allowing the flavors to explode throughout the mouth. Now they can either swallow or spit the coffee out depending on personal preference.

Participants then moved to the next cup. The process is done fairly quickly, but cuppers can go back through and taste again, writing down notes and discussing flavors with others.

“It increased my appreciation for the art form of coffee roasting,” participant Christopher Coffman said. He is a first-time cupper but calls himself a “coffee addict,” drinking four to five cups per day. He said he was amazed in the differences by region and temperature.

More than 1,100 chemical reactions happen when roasting a coffee bean, Brewton said. The roasting itself only takes about 15 to 20 minutes, but finding the right balance of temperature and time for a specific bean can be challenging.

“A new bean can take days,” he said.

His Ethiopia roast took a week before he found the right formula.

Jovis Coffee will continue to hold cupping events. Brewton said interested persons can drop by the shop at 242 E. Main St. and leave their e-mail or sign up online at www.joviscoffee.com. The event is planned for the second Tuesday of every month, with the next cupping on Feb. 12. Time will depend on participants. Brewton hopes to have groups of about seven.

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